![]() They are composed of a prefabricated head and shank, which is inserted into the material to be joined, and a second head which enables the rivet to act as a fastener at the free end by various means known as a setting. To differentiates between the two ends of the rivets, the original’s heads are called the factories heads, & the deformed end is called the shop head or buck-tail. In other words, pounding or pulling creates a new “head” by breaking off the “tail” material flatter on the other end, resulting in a rivet that is roughly the size of a dumbbell. When installing, the rivet is placed in a punched or drilled hole, and the tail is screwed or buckled so that it protrudes to approximately 1.5 times the original shaft diameter, holding the rivet in place. The opposite end of the head is called the tail. Before being installed, rivets consist of a smooth cylindrical shaft with a head at one end. Rivets are non-threaded fasteners typically made of steel or aluminum. If you really want to take a deep dive into blind rivets the International Organization of Standards (ISO) white paper on blind rivet terminology and definitions is a good read.A rivet is a permanent mechanical fastener with head-on at one end and a cylindrical stem called a tail at the other that has the appearance of a metal pin. ![]() Like the solid rivet, the blind rivet has a work specification for workpiece thickness, however, the blind rivet is a little more forgiving to grip range and often a rivet that is just a bit too long will still set cleanly. For example, you will find aluminum pop rivets with a steel mandrel, which increases clamp loads since the steel mandrel takes more force before it separates from the rivet body. The mandrel isn’t always the same material either. Blind rivets are commonly made from aluminum and steel, but you will also find stainless steel and even plastic composites. Blind rivets are designed as a two-part component with the rivet body and an internal mandrel in the center. Blind rivets are easily set with one person, greatly reducing installation time, while maintaining the strength of screws, bolts, or even welding, when used in the proper quantity/spacing. If you’re planning an aluminum interior conversion, rear seat delete in your muscle car, firewall bulkhead panel, or other such steel or aluminum work in your project car then rivets will be needed, but which ones and what sizes? Read on.īlind rivets are, for the most part, what are commonly used in automotive applications. Today, rivets are used not only in OEM vehicle manufacturing, but in race car interior and exterior panels, and more. Using rivets in your build saves weight and provides tight panel fitment. They retain two or more components together easily, do not require access to the back side of the work piece, and will not come loose if they are installed properly. ![]() ![]() This is where a rivet becomes the preferred method of retention. Nuts and bolts work great, if you have access to the back side of the work area and locking fasteners eliminate the worry of loosening, but all those nuts and bolts tend to add a lot of weight. So why use a rivet over a typical nut and bolt or even a tapping screw? For starters, tapping screws rely on the threads and the underside of the screw head for retention and can back out due to vibration not cool at all for your race car let alone a street car.
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